Manuel Andrack reports:
Berlin has 3.76 million residents, and the number is rising. If they all go hiking at the same time, the Spree, Havel, and Grunewald will be packed—very, very packed. Too packed. That’s why it’s great that the Berlin area (also known as Brandenburg) has landscapes that are, first, not as well-known and, second, therefore not as crowded. In 2012, the German Hiking Day took place in the Fläming, a flat, gently rolling landscape. In preparation for this event, I had the chance to walk the art hiking trail between Bad Belzig and Wiesenburg. In total, with all its loops and detours (for example, to Hagelberg, at 200.3 meters the Mount Everest of the Fläming—complete with a summit logbook!)
I recommend starting with the South Route. It’s 16.8 kilometers long and can be comfortably completed as a day trip. We begin at Wiesenburg train station; the first highlight is the castle, with its impressive park. Not as French as Versailles, more English like the world-famous gardens of Wörlitz. This is high garden art, fitting for the International Art Hiking Trail. But why is this trail called “International”? The artworks along the path were created as part of an international competition. This suits the Fläming, whose migration history is reflected in its name. Since many Flemish people settled in this region for centuries, a kind of East Holland emerged just outside Berlin. Now, let’s look at some of the artworks.
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Very impressive is the wooden sculpture by Susken Rosenthal. Among pine trees. Forest conversations of trunks and beams. A beautiful idea: the beams have returned to their homeland. As if randomly scattered, they embrace and surround the tall pines. Culture in dialogue with nature. And if you listen very carefully, you can eavesdrop on the forest conversations. Between us, they’re not exactly highbrow discussions. They’re more about everyday topics like wind, weather, seasons—and what are the little ones up to?
Also very beautiful are the giant cow udders tumbling across the pasture near Wiesenburg. The title given to this artwork by Dutch artist Silke de Bolle is quite cryptic and only understandable with a Dutch dictionary. Because “kuieren” means “to stroll” in Dutch, and “uier” means “udder.”
A little eerie is suddenly encountering the howling wolves along the trail. But I can reassure you—they won’t do anything, they just want to play. I found the artworks on this hiking trail truly exceptional. 17 artifacts line the South Route, all very original and perfectly suited to their respective landscapes: forest, pasture, meadow, viaduct. Better than any Documenta, said one trail reviewer online.
In Bad Belzig, you should definitely visit the imposing castle and have a beer at the local brewery. Maybe you’ll even meet someone to toast with. Cheers to the International Art Hiking Trail in the Fläming!
